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Contents Listing - Articles & Features in this issue
Electro-Glide. Radio control powered glider for electric, using a geared 480 motor. Wingspan 90 in. A large model published as a "Superplan" in Radio Modeller magazine
| Electro-Glide | |
| MODEL TYPE | R/C SEMI-SCALE ELECTRIC GLIDER |
| DESIGNER | Stewart Lunney |
| POWER TYPE | Electric |
| POWER SIZE | 450-size & 7.2v 6-cell battery, (0r 360-size with reduction gear) |
| CONTROL | Radio Control 3-channel |
| WINGSPAN | 2286mm (90") |
| PLAN SIZE | Two sheets each 794mm x 564mm |
| SOURCE | Radio Modeller Magazine, July 1989 Issue |
| SHIPPING WEIGHT (Printed) |
0.25kg |
Article Snippets
Information from the plan feature article:
"Inexpensive electric fun. Electro-Glide, by Stewart Lunney Welcome to the world of electric gliding! Are you one of those people who want to have a go at electric flying, but have been put off by the thought of heavy battery packs and short flights, as well as the expense? If so, you are like me, and are wrong!
All you need is a six cell 7.2v car pack, one of the 450 type engines, or a Lemans 360, and an Astroflight reduction gear, which will not break the bank (when you think of the cost of fuel, glow plugs, props, etc) and off you go to the field. I can guarantee that you will have flights of eight to ten minutes in the poorest of lift conditions. During the winter months, when everything is freezing cold and still, I have had fights of twenty-five minutes. Don't forget - no bungees or tow lines, no noise, no mess but just relaxing slow flying! Still not convinced, I bet! Have a go and you won't be disappointed, especially you beginners.Construction: The construction is very simple and well within the reach of any beginner. The fuselage is very simple to make from 1/4in square, which is pinned to the plan and building board. 1/8in sheet is used for the front section with 1/32 sheet ply strengtheners. The nose block may be made from block balsa, which is then carved to shape. The inner section must also be carved/cut to fit the reduction gear mechanism exactly. Make one fuselage half on top of the other - don't forget to use greaseproof paper between them. Once both sides are done, attach them to the nose block. I tied an elastic band around the tail end to hold the sides in correct alignment, but DON'T glue the tail section together just yet, until the centre spacers have been put in. Once the spacers are in glue the tail ends together making sure everything is perfectly straight, as bananas don't fly too well. The fuselage floor may now be glued in place. The canopy is a conventional type which is trimmed to fit the 1/4in square canopy support. I cut cooling holes into the canopy front just in case things got hot. Tailplane and fin: These are really very easy to make, again using 1/4 in square pinned to the building board, and simply cut and fit. Wings: I hate making wings, so I tend to leave thme til the last. The wings have two types of section, flat bottom for the main section and undercambered for the tips. The tips are held in place by aluminium locating rods..."
